Love the DOWN!

(Brooks Range, August 2010)

A Midsummer Night's Dream

How now, spirit! whither wander you?

Over hill, over dale,
Thorough bush, thorough brier,
Over park, over pale,
Thorough flood, thorough fire,
I do wander everywhere.

The course of true love never did run smooth.

O hell! to choose love by another's eyes.

Swift as a shadow, short as any dream;
Brief as the lightning in the collied night,
That, in a spleen, unfolds both heaven and earth,
And ere a man hath power to say 'Behold!'

(The view from Matanuska Peak as not yet seen by thine eyes)

My Next Life

(Dall sheep dot mountain ridge - Brooks Range, 2009)

In the 3rd grade my favorite animal was the dog - specifically the Chow Chow. I would check out books from the library and flip through the pictures pretending to have a dog of my own. I still love dogs. By the 5th grade I had fallen in love with the elephant - to this day I don't know why. As I moved into junior high my interest turned passionately towards the oceans and I was all about whales, until of course I discovered the manatee.

If you had asked me what animal I wanted to be in my next life, I would have said a whale - for they swam the oceans and many varieties cover incredible distances in any given year. They are adventurous, social and huge, yet graceful creatures. This all changed when I moved to Alaska where I was introduced to the mountains. I had never seen such wonderful landscapes before, nor dall sheep. On a hike through the Brooks Range my first summer here I was asked what animal I would be reincarnated as, and I knew my ocean days had washed ashore, for I wanted to come back as a dall sheep. They spend their days wandering some of the most remote and incredible ridges, they frolic in gorgeous mountain valleys snacking on avens and sipping the freshest water around. They even winter in the mountains. I don't know how they do it, but they subsist on the high slopes year-round. Incredible, agile, hardy, wonderful creatures they are.

This summer, my first summer south of the Arctic Circle in 5 years has opened my eyes to a new way to enjoy the mountains I so dearly love - mountain running. Apparently people like to run up mountains and through mountains for fun - fantastic! Why didn't I know about this sooner? The idea was first presented to me in Born to Run by Christopher McDougall. It's a great book and all about people that run in the mountains (ok, it is about so much more, but you'll have to read it to fully appreciate it). From the book I learned people have been running through the backcountry, up and over mountains for...well forever. For some reason I never thought about this before, and as with many things, I'm behind the times. To make matters even better, Alaskans like to do this too.

There is a group called the Alaska Mountain Runners and a running series in the Chugach mountain range, near Anchorage, with races specifically geared at running up and sometimes running back down mountains. I couldn't let something this wonderful go untried, so I competed in my first mountain running event in early June. It was an all uphill battle of some 3,500 ft of elevation in something like 4 miles. I had no idea what I was doing, but I loved every single grueling minute of it. I haven't breathed so hard since being at altitude on Denali (nor have I moved so slow!). I was on all fours scrambling through steepest terrain and by the time I had climbed high enough to be above treeline I sneaked views as I attempted to "powerhike" like the others to the top. I am sure my powerhiking looked more like slow motion walking, to the extent that the very humble and encouraging winner of that race, Matias, gave me some coaching on his way down. My response was to scowl at him, like the"know-it-all" gal that I can sometimes be. When the winner of the race offers some helpful pointers, one should never scoff, but rather gratefully smile and immediately put into motion whatever was suggested. I digress...the race sealed the deal. I love mountain running. Since then I have spent every possible moment putting the words of wisdom the winner gave me that day into practice. I powerhike up everything in sight and more importantly I am learning how to run downhill. As long as I get to the top, the real key is to get back down, efficiently and fast, which requires a lot of practice, and some incredible leg muscles. I've decided to compete in a race on a more grandiose scale at the end of month and I am training like crazy to figure it all out. I certainly have found my latest passion and obsession.

While on a training run on Mt. Healy, a small peak 2 hrs south of Fairbanks, aka: Flatbanks, I had an epiphany. With a liter of water on my back and sneakers on my feet, I set off in the rain, feeling light and free. It took me under 3 hrs to get back to my car - pretty speedy for this elephant/whale/manatee wanna-be. While I frolicked and absorbed not only the rain, but the intermittent view of the valleys below, it struck me that mountain running just might be my opportunity to experience a little of my next life - now. If I work hard enough, I just might get to be the dall sheep that I've been dreaming to be.

Solstice Saturation

A little solstice plant.
Replenishment.
The roseroot.

Roseroot: Grows in cold regions - Improves mood - Alleviates depression - Reduces fatigue

If I had known of the therapeutic powers of Rhodiola rosea, I would have indulged. It may have brightened my mood. A soggy solstice trip cut short: driving up river beds next to gold mines allowed us access to areas unknown, damp down sleeping bags, packrafting under stormy skies, hitchhiking in a car already too full, a 6 hr power nap in the front seat waiting for gas. Four days of ... what? A saturated sour solstice soiree. I felt let down with expectations set too high. Will I ever learn? Perhaps next time I'll remember to replenish in the little things, like the roseroot.

Season of Summits

Three for three

(stopping atop the OBrien Icefall on a perfect 10 evening)

Kicked steps only 4 days after 100 mile ski up Triangle
Single pushed in a quick 12 hours up Item
Improvised ice tools employed to get up Black Cap.

My 2010 mountaineering season, while short, was a blast and a year of reaching out to farther limits. A year of unique experiences on each mountain adventure. Never have I kicked steps from top to bottom of Triangle. It was exhilarating to lead a class of newbies one step at a time.

(kicking steps up steep summit ridge of Triangle)

My first "alpine" style ascent up Item Peak left me tapping the vein of the addiction going fast and light can lead to. As winds pounded on myself and Max relentlessly, we moved quick and strong. Side sloping exposed rocks while wearing crampons didn't ravage my ankle as feared. Roped together in winds so strong the rope was held in the air, we were treated with unique views of the Jarvis Glacier and an intermittent glimpse at Silvertip.

(the wind on Item accompanied us every second of the day)

Never have I successfully seen what lies above the OBrien Icefall. Paradise lies there, but don't tell anyone. Black Cap, 9800 ft, by far has been my greatest climb in the Delta Range. A group that has never climbed together before moved quickly and efficiently. A weather pattern held. Crust did not sog. A can-do attitude pushed us on, despite challenging terrain and lack of proper gear. Using pickets as ice tools, carabiner belay devices, ice bollards for rappelling, we graced the top of Black Cap and witnessed views of the Deltas only dreamed of before. Endless daylight and a stable snowpack made for a glorious descent. Views of the Wrangells were had. A magical weekend that will stay with me for many months to come.

(rapping off an ice bollard on the descent of Black Cap)

It is with sweet bitter that I bid the Deltas an "adieu" for 2010. I now set my sights on enjoying my first summer in Alaska below the Arctic Circle. Basil gardens, bike rides, training runs up Moose Mtn, and a sub 4 hr Equinox are among my new aspirations.

Wizard of OTZ

Incognito in Kotzebue:

Kotzebue is a Native Village of roughly 3,000 people in the western arctic that lives on a gravel spit. I traveled there recently in route to do a few days of field work on the Agashoshak River, a beautiful little spot in the western Brooks Range. It was a week of new experiences - snowmachining to work, camping in an arctic oven equipped with a travel wood stove and all, and witnessing a small piece of native village life.





My trip also included an unexpected flight to three small villages: Ambler, Kobuk and Shungnak. My first flight in a Caravan. A delivery of lots and lots of soda and a few passengers, including a girl that was medi-vac-ed out earlier that week and a State Trooper who rode along so we could pick up a "perp" in hand-cuffs at Shungnak. It was a pretty full village experience.

Dairy Queen Delight

(Minya Peak - Delta Range - Sep 2009)

Labor Day turned out to be an ice-cream lovers dream. Three days to attempt Institute Peak. A cloud capped Institute encouraged us to set our sights on the ever delightful corniced peak of Minya. The peak was swirled like the tastiest vanilla soft-serve on a hot summer day.
Highlights:

(Orca VW Bug!! - Free Willy's Alaskan Cousin?)

(Glacier camping - in summer requires rock removal)

(Little did we know the peak would soon be cloudy)

(Up, up and away)

(Phooey! Not enough pickets and a CLOUD)

(Kick-stepping our way to the frosty cornice. September snow is incredible!)

(Great views of the Deltas on our way down)

Três Volcanoes Dance in Loneliness

(Pico de Popocatépetl, Mexico, Dec 2007,
as seen from Pico de Iztaccihuatl)

Canta, veja
Cinder ruptures the lonely
Um, dois, três
Magma smothers all sense
Sozinha, solteria
Eruptions rip heart's core
Bata o congo
Lava intoxicates stimulation
Apaixanda
Volcanic ashes fall to lust
Dança da solidão

(Pico de Orizaba, Mexico, Dec 2007)

Geometric Memories

The three-sided summit rises sharp and wily,
Corniced creatures stretch to touch the void,
A stable slope holds from slipping into freedom,
Fresh powder on slab compresses the past,
Footprints kicked w/ silent suffering drift in,
Retraced steps tramp freely on crust,
Traipsing along place, time, moment,
Captured on film and over-exposed,
Always pausing to measure the angle.

Assessing the angles on Triangle Peak (Apr 2009)

TrevO cuts a line up first slope.

My turn to break trail.

Fun w/ the sun.

Corniced creatures thwart the attempt
to reach the three-sided summit.

Denali Fly-By

This just in:
There was a fly-by while we were on Denali - back in May '08.
Click for higher resolution shots.
These show OUR trail and camp!!
What perspective, hard to believe that was me.
WOW!

A Day on the Jack River

(Jack River ski line-up - Dec 2008)

(Headed into the valley)

Jack River be frozen, Jack Ice be slick
Can't wait to make the ice tools stick
No cape today for Christie's still sick.

Three "buff" gals and two hearty dogs
With temps so warm, it ain't no slog
A day so delightful will go on the blog.

Caribou herds, Penny's got 'em retreating
Hold it...Perfect picture for "Season's Greetings"
With Erin, Amy, Penny and Clem not fleeting.

Where's the ice? It must be a trick
Keep on going through all the thick
No climbing today, light wanes too quick.

For December in Alaska short is the wick
On Mother Goose's ice cold candlestick
No worries, next time we'll use the pick.

(Season's Greetings from Erin, Amy, Penny and Clemson)

(Fun little downhill section - wohoo!)

A Silverback's Silvertip

(Silvertip Mtn, Delta Range - Sept 2008)

Rime encrusted steel points,
Settle icy awakenings.
Frail whispers patiently warm,
Crystalline blowing clouds.
Blended vistas framed in gray,
Tear squinting eyes.
Frozen pink valleys divide,
Sight, sound, route.
Precarious, precipitous rock falls,
Crumble, skip, hop.
Clamoring creeks coolly cascade,
Meditative Zen gardens.
Silverback ravaged earthly aromas,
Stain nylon green.

(Flood Creek, Delta Range - Sept 2008)

(Approaching N. Ridge of Michael Creek - Sept 2008)